Tuesday 22 February 2011

Calico Ghost Town

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We left San Diego on Sunday 02nd January and headed for Las Vegas by road.   A very long road… A very long, very straight and very boring road… through the Mojave Desert.  Very long… and very boring…  Sorry Interstate 15 but I really would appreciate the occasional turn next time.  Left, or right, I don’t mind… but 134 miles in a straight line, on one stretch, with nothing to see other than the occasional cactus and the back end of another 18 wheeler is enough to drive a boy mad!  

Anyway….

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So, after a few hours of driving we decided to take a break and Linda directed us to Calico Ghost town for a stroll and, hopefully, a bite.

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Calico is an old silver mining town built on the side of King Mountain in San Bernadino County and dates back to 1881 where it boomed during the American silver rush.  Within less than 25 years it had been completely abandoned with its oldest resident, Miss Lucy Bell Lane, passing away in her 60’s.  Over 500 mines were active at its peak and more than 1200 residents lived among the saloon bars, brothels, gambling houses and, of course, churches.

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It’s an interesting place and really feels like going back in time to the wild west that we’ve all seen in films and on TV.

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Easy to imagine horses tied up outside the buildings, boots and spurs clopping and clinking along the wooden boardwalks and the sound of a slightly detuned piano playing behind the crack of occasional gunfire and dynamite explosions.

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The site lay empty for many years until the Knotts Berry Farm company bought it in the 1950’s, restored it as originally as they could from old documents and photographs and gave it back to the county as a historic monument.

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It’s only about a third of it’s original size but all the right ingredients are there like the fire house, the blacksmiths shop, saddlery and the explosives store.

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There’s even an undertaker with an original horse drawn hearse.  Behind the main street there's a railway ride on the Calico & Odessa Railroad.

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During the warmer months the town is full of actors dressed up in period clothing and all of the shops, shacks and buildings are open and busy.   They do re-enactments of gun fights and even a Civil War  display during many festivals in the town.

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Camp grounds are available too!  If you’re not afraid of rattlesnakes and coyotes… and vultures... 

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The old school is used during education days and stands slightly removed from the high street looking very sweet indeed!  If you ever happen to be passing by and in need of a break from the endless miles of I15 straightness I would highly recommend a visit to Calico.  I’d love to go back in the summer and witness some of the celebratory historical enactments.

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I’d never been out in the middle of the desert before and crikey it was so….  freezing!!   We couldn’t believe just how cold it was and the breeze made it even more unbearable. 

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It wasn’t all bad though.  Before returning to the car and the I15 we called into the old miners cafe for lunch and as well as that old detuned piano they had waitresses dressed up in period costume, buckets of peanuts on the tables of which it is encouraged to discard the shells onto the floor!

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and good old fashioned vittles just like Granny used ter make.  Corn bread, ham hock, all served up in miners tin cups :-)

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Sunday 6 February 2011

San Diego

Our much anticipated Christmas and New Year holiday to the United States got under way, despite many threats, on Wednesday 29th December 2010.  Sarah had been really ill with Tonsillitis and Glandular Fever, Linda had a sore throat and a nasty cough, the UK had ground to a virtual halt with the worst winter snow and ice conditions since our generation were young enough to think that it was all very exciting and of no inconvenience whatsoever and even our destination state, California, you know… where it never rains, was drowning under their worst ever rain storms and watching their houses get washed away and their roads crumble whilst the rest of America closed its airports and itself down because there was just too much snow! 

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We arrived in San Diego after two very good but long flights tired, grumpy and with that gritty unwashed feeling that is the last thing one needs for the inevitable battle with the car rental company trying to convince us that the car we’d booked was way too small for the four of us and our luggage and, of course, that the only way to avoid a visit from the horrid gods of dammed hard luck was to up our insurance ten fold.  We resisted well and battled through it and needless to say the car that we’d booked was easily big enough for five plus much luggage and despite our gritty tiredness we’d managed to keep tight hold of our dollars and our more than adequate insurance.

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We checked into our hotel and grabbed a much needed beer and a bite before we eventually collapsed into bed.  Ah yes… the beds.  It had been three years since we last went to the US with the Girls and we’d been somewhat short-sighted in booking a twin room for us all to share.  They used to seem plenty big enough but all of a sudden, those three years had caught up and we were now four full sized adults trying to share what now felt like a small space.  It wasn’t a good first night so the next morning, as soon as I was upright, I thankfully managed to book the adjacent room and the increased comfort made for a really great stay!

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Just outside our apartments we were thrilled to see Humming Birds flitting about and despite being so close to them, the above shot was about the best I got when this one sat still for three and a half picoseconds.

Our one and only venture into downtown San Diego was to see the Gaslamp Quarter on New Years Eve and it wasn’t really the best plan.  It was dark, cold and seedy and perhaps just because it was Jan 31st it seemed to be completely overrun with unsavoury characters on every corner, in every doorway, at every garbage can and along every pavement.  It just had an uncomfortable, dark feeling about it so we had a brief stroll around, took a few photos and then headed back to the hotel with a bunch of snacks for our wild Hogmanay party :-)   Perhaps another day and another time we’ll have a better look around.  You can make your own mind up about the next pic…  One of many interesting sights around this quarter of San Diego.

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The main destination for us in San Diego was the zoo in Balboa Park.  Opened in 1915 it is renowned as one of the very best in the world and it really did turn out to be that way!  Over 4000 animals with everything imaginable provided.  It was a full day out and we were blessed with beautiful clear blue sunny skies all day.  It was a bit chilly at times but not quite as cold as the locals made it out to be in their thermals, boots, woolies and duck down pants.   We started early with breakfast at the zoo and I overheard the following conversation between a guy and his young son in the ‘rest’ room.  “Ok.. you done yet?  Good, well jump off, turn around and spread your legs so I can clean you up and then I’m gonna have to have words with your Mama ‘cos I don’t know what the god-damned she’s been feeding you!”

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Some parts of the zoo were quietly comfortable to look around and to stand and watch the animals and considering that the schools were off it never really got too stressful.  Some exhibits were obviously very very popular and at times it did get a wee bit mad.  The Polar Bears were one of the maddest bits with hundreds of Mexicans, Chinese and Japanese people all climbing over each other and trading their children in exchange for a clearer view.  We arrived there just as they were feeding and despite the crowds it was a rare moment of wonder to see these massive beasts up close and personal.

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The Lions too were very popular and the way the enclosures are set up makes it easy for the more patient public to get stunning views and witness some of the magic that these magnificent animals possess.

Top of my list was the Panda.  I’d always wanted to see a live Panda and after around 30 mins of queuing my wish came true.  Wow!!  What an absolute treat!!  There were three Pandas in the enclosure on that day and this gorgeous youngster sat posing for us just as we got our turn.  They are just as lovely as I’d always imagined and I genuinely felt privileged and moved to see them.

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Another first for me, and the Girls, was seeing the Pacific Ocean.  This was looking out from the Seaport Village towards Coronado and the bridge in the background is 2.1 miles long, rises to 200 feet and turns through 80 degrees half way over.  Quite a sight!

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Linda thought I’d arranged an early surprise wedding present as we walked out of the car park!

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The Seaport Village is a shopping and dining complex and was met very enthusiastically by Sarah and Katie… and Linda… and ok, even I made a purchase or two.

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It’s a charming place and it is full of ‘old’ style Mexican buildings which nestle below the modern imposition of the San Diego downtown district.

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As well as the shops and eateries there are street entertainers around every corner… Balloon shapers, musicians, magicians, mimes.  It’s a lovely place.  Just behind us on the picture above was the USS Ronald Reagan aircraft carrier which is still in active service.  Also just around the corner is the USS Midway which is now a museum and was gearing up for a massive New Year’s party.

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The village is full of beautiful flowers and stunning cacti which were looking pretty good for mid-winter.

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This beautiful carousel was hand carved in 1895 by Charles Looff, one of the 50 or so that he made by hand in his lifetime.

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On a day like this, there can be no better way to have a look around San Diego than this!

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Have you ever seen Aunt Josephine’s house on Lemony Snicket – A series of Unfortunate Events?  Sarah and Katie saw the resemblance here:-

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On our last day in San Diego we did a bit more shopping and headed up the coast to see the sunset over La Jolla.

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La Jolla (La Hoya) is a beautiful, affluent seaside area just like Southport which is to the North of San Deigo.

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We parked right between this famous (for weddings etc) sunset scene to our left and this fantastic sculpture atop the San Diego Museum of Contemporary Art to out right.

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Down at the beaches we were treated to a whole load of seals which were swimming, posing, fighting and playing in the surf, on the ricks and even up on the beaches right in front of us.  They kept us well entertained as we waited for the sun to set.

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Despite the sheer beauty of this place Sarah and Katie encountered a life-changing trauma as they used the only available public convenience, a  portaloo, which had been provided just by the stone pier.  Let’s just say that it wasn’t exactly clean and fresh and that I don’t think either of them will ever want to go to the Glastonbury festival now!! 

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The sunset was genuinely special.  Sarah and Katie were really struck by just how beautiful it was and we all agreed that we are very lucky indeed to have encountered such peaceful and precious moments.

So that was it for San Deigo.  Great food.  Great company.  Fantastic scenery.  Great shops.  Lovely weather.  Fabulous animals.  Beautiful sunsets.  Simples!

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